To position oneself against existing power relations, to question, confirm or reinforce traditional conventions, to show solidarity or to rebel offensively: Clothing is not only used in declarative T-shirts to show a political position. Various strategies are pursued by means of direct and conspicuous codes, whether in a discreetly sublime manner or through seemingly inconspicuous and affirmative clothing behaviour. In this tense relationship, the lectures in the series ‘MODE Thema MODE’ from 18 September 2024 are dedicated to the concepts of political expression through clothing from the 16th century to the present day.
Image above: Die Royal Family auf dem Balkon von Buckingham Palace, Bildnachweis: Lorna Roberts / Shutterstock.com
Wednesday, 18 September 2024, 6 pm
MADE IN GERMANY. Fashion and right-wing extremism
Today, Germany is the international fashion centre of right-wing extremism. German Nordic Brands, Northern European textile brands, Viking Lifestyles or clothing for conservatives and patriots are the self-descriptions of this fashion segment. Brands, products and online stores from small German towns and villages are booming, even internationally. However, it is not only the trend towards the creation of far-right fashion labels that is on the rise, right-wing influencers are also producing a variety of new styles on social media platforms. The lecture will present current research findings on the far-right fashion complex made in Germany for discussion.
with Elke Gaugele, Vienna
Venue: Lecture hall at the Kulturforum, admission free
Wednesday, 16 October 2024, 6 pm
MONSTER GIRLS & BONDAGE BOYS
Fantasy and subversion in punk fashion
The rebellion of the punks comes dressed in leopard print, leather masks, boob T-shirts, silver chains, granny handbags and see-through tulle skirts. In punk, fashion is the starting point for challenging rules and boundaries – be they social, sexual, gender-specific or those of so-called good taste. Punks wanted to reinvent identity. In this lecture, we want to trace the DIY beginnings of punk pioneers in shops like SEX or BOY on Kings Road in London and analyse their impact and connections to today.
with Marie Arleth Skov, Berlin/Århus
Venue: Lecture hall at the Kulturforum, admission free
Wednesday, 13 November 2024, 6 pm
DRESSES, BLING, QUEEN
Observations on the visual strategies of the British royal family
Queen Elizabeth II has secured a place in the collective memory through her hats, colourful outfits and precisely coordinated jewellery. Simon Hofer’s lecture will shed light on the extent to which the Royal Family’s fashionable appearance still pursues deliberate visual strategies in public appearances today.
with Simon Hofer, Berlin
Venue: Lecture theatre at the Kulturforum, admission free
Wednesday, 19 February 2025, 6 pm
RAISON D’ÉTAT AND FASHION DICTATES. Aspects of rulers’ dress practices in the French Second Empire
The Second French Empire (1852-1870) was strongly characterised by the regal display of court and state. Empress Eugenie played a key role in the carefully staged, glamorous ‘fête impériale’: her outward appearance and wardrobe dominated public perception. This historical example reveals complex, sometimes ambivalent connections between political, social, cultural and economic factors in the context of imperial dress practices and their public reception, which still resonate here and there today.
with Birgit Haase, Hamburg
Venue: Lecture theatre in the Kulturforum, admission free
Wednesday, 19 March 2025, 6 pm
THE NATIONAL COSTUME DEBATE. Attempts to establish national dress in the 18th and 19th centuries
In the 18th century, there was a growing tendency in the Old Kingdom, Sweden and Denmark to express national affiliation through clothing. This development went hand in hand with the endeavour to emancipate themselves economically from the fashion power of France by means of a national costume. The lecture examines the arguments within the national costume debate as well as the concrete attempts at practical implementation.
with Enrico Wagner, Wilhelmshaven
Venue: Lecture theatre in the Kulturforum, admission free
Wednesday, 9 April 2025, 6 pm
CLOTHES, JEWELLERY AND WEAPONS. Vestimentary representation at the electoral Saxon court 1550 -1650
The clothing worn by a ruler, made of precious silks and luxurious furs, adorned with golden jewellery set with precious stones and complemented by splendid weapons, made him stand out visibly from the crowd. The choice of dress, jewellery and weapons depended on the occasion and the other person. Carefully selected accessories referred to origin and family relationships, conveyed political messages and emphasised alliances. Using the example of the Saxon electors of the Albertine line of the Wettins, some of these aspects can be demonstrated with the help of the unique collections of princely dresses, jewellery and ceremonial weapons preserved in Dresden.
with Christine Nagel, Dresden
Venue: Lecture theatre in the Kulturforum, admission free
Link: Lucas Cranach d.J., Dresden, 1565 und 1564, Kurfürstin Anna von Sachsen, Öl/Holz © Rüstkammer, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, Elke Estel, Hans Peter Klut | Rechts: Lucas Cranach d.J., Dresden, 1565 und 1564, Kurfürst August von Sachsen, Öl/Holz © Rüstkammer, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, Elke Estel, Hans Peter Klut
About the lecture series MODE Thema MODE
In the ‘MODE Thema MODE’ lecture series, international speakers present topics on clothing, fashion, costume, accessories and textiles with regard to cultural history, artistic practices and social reception. The event has been organised by the Art Library since 2003.
The Art Library houses one of the world’s largest collections of images and books on the history of clothing in its museum holdings: the Fashion Image Collection – Lipperheide Costume Library. Its origins lie in the ‘Collection for Costume Studies’ of the Berlin publishing couple Franz and Frieda Lipperheide, who donated their holdings to the Royal Museums in Berlin in 1892.
to the Royal Museums in Berlin in 1892.
WHEN?
Exhibition dates: from Wednesday, 18 September 2024
MADE IN GERMANY. Fashion and right-wing extremism: Wednesday, 18 September 2024, 6 pm
MONSTER GIRLS & BONDAGE BOYS
Fantasy and subversion in punk fashion: Wednesday, 16 October 2024, 6 pm
DRESSES, BLING, QUEEN
Observations on visual strategies of the British royal family: Wednesday, 13 November 2024, 6 pm
RAISON D’ÉTAT AND FASHION DICTATES. Aspects of royal dress practice in the French Second Empire: Wednesday, 19 February 2025, 6 pm
THE NATIONAL COSTUME DEBATE. Attempts to establish national dress in the 18th and 19th centuries: Wednesday, 19 March 2025, 6 p.m.
CLOTHES, JEWELLERY AND WEAPONS. Vestimentary representation at the Electoral Saxon court 1550 -1650: Wednesday, 9 April 2025, 6 p.m.
WHERE?
Kulturforum, Kunstbibliothek
Matthäikirchplatz 6
10785 Berlin
